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Mera Peak > Expedition Overview

HIGHLIGHTS
- Trek through the Sherpa Villages of the Everest area
- Summiting Nepal's highest Trekking Peak
- Mera Glacier
- Spectacular views Everest, Lhotse and Nuptse.
- Magnificent wilderness and wonderful people of the Hinku valley.

OVERVIEW
Mera Peak (6,654m) is ideal for those looking to achieve their first Himalayan ascent. Thought technically an easy climb it is, however, a real challenge to reach the summit of Nepal's highest Trekking Peak. Mera Peak stands to the south of Everest and dominates the watershed between the heavily wooded valleys of the Hinku and Hongu Drangkas. J.O.M. Roberts and Sen Tenzing made the first successful ascent of Mera Peak on 20 May 1953. The route they used is still the standard route.

The summit of Mera Peak provides one of the finest viewpoints in Nepal, offering a panoramic view of Chamlang, Kangchenjunga, Makalu, and Baruntse in the east and the peaks of Cho-Oyu, Ama Dablam and Kantega to the west. Everest can be viewed to the north over the massive south face of Lhotse and the Nuptse/Lhotse ridge. Under favourable conditions, it is possible to climb the peak and descend back to Base Camp on the same day.

Climbing Route:
North Face Glacier from the Mera La.
The base camp can be set up at 5,300m near Mera La on the Hongu side in the moraine below the ice. From here a high camp is set at 5,800m near a rocky outcrop on the Mera Glacier. The high camp proves to be one to the most glorious viewpoints in Nepal offering the panoramic views of Kanchanjunga, Chamlang, Makalu and Baruntse sweeping around from the east and Amadablam, Cho Oyu and Kangtega to the west. The giant faces of Everest, Lhotse and Nuptse appear in the north.

There are three main summits which are climbable without much difficulty. The south summit (6,065m) is the most accessible with the Northern Summit (6,476m), the highest, which can be reached by skirting the Central Summit (6,461m) to the north and following a snow ridge to its top. Climbing the middle summit requires ascent up on steep snow and is more technical. Mera North is straight-forward to climb.